Loving Life

A loving life is wavy, stochastic, and mesmerizing. Swells arrive after patient waiting in the doldrums, or impatient squinting into horizons. Some sets come on unevenly, shockingly hard and toss you back across the white water. Ocean spills out your nose for the rest of the week. Or slowly swells in your eyes, drooping down your cheek, cleansing like saline. Others dreamily sweep you away, gently into the sky.

But oh, the fullness of life! The boredom of flat nothingness, the anticipation of agile, alive bumps in the distance, the rush of strength to paddle, the poise to stand, the aesthetic, endorphin fueled gliding, the elegant dismount or cruel crash. Loss of breath, swallowed brine, celebrations and fireworks and small scrapes and contusions. Anger, envy, joy, compassion, egotistical madness and enlightened zen stoicism, self observant. Self compassionate. Self reliant. Kinetic childish smiles from the depths of star dust souls.

You never know the journey a wave will take you on, but you will never find out if you fight against it and let it pass you by, unloved.

Catching my breath now, paddling back out.